Day 16. Getting lost.

It happened. The intended ten-mile bike ride became a 35-mile one. I had put far too much faith in my own sense of direction. The result was an erratic zigzag around the outskirts and suburbs of the capital. I never bothered to ask for directions. The sun would be out until nearly 11pm anyway, and what better way to explore Copenhagen than by doing so in an utterly mindless manner?

Along the way, an Ikea appeared, and I was thrilled to experience the giant furniture store in its native Scandinavian environment. As it turns out Danish Ikeas are identical the ones in suburban America, though I don't know what I expected... massive hordes of smiling blondes making their pilgrimage, maybe. Or just Swedish meatballs everywhere, I don't know.

One surprise along the route of my Tour de Copenhagen was stumbling upon Grundtvigs Kirke, a wildly unique and dominating structure. The church, built in the 1920s and '30s is all at once weird, beautiful, alarming and unlike anything I've ever seen.

Day 2. Bikes.

Bikes rule the streets of Copenhagen. There are bicycle traffic jams, bicycle traffic lights, and bike "streets" separated from the regular ones. Bikes themselves are built to be commuting machines rather than mountain or racing ones: sturdy frames to handle cobblestones and fenders and chain guards to keep the snazzy Danes clean while they ride.

Since the city is compact, and it's often more convenient to travel by bike, I bought one today. The bike store agreed to buy it back in August, helping me recoup much of the value. It's a used one - and pretty much a women's model - but it's still handsome and works like a charm. An "Everton Athletic" (sounds like a British soccer club).