Copenhagen loves jazz. It's like the forgotten, cold-weather, European cousin of the Mississippi Delta... except with socialized medicine and such. Louis Armstrong visited, recorded and played live (amazing video in that link, by the way). So did Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie and the Giants of Jazz. Dexter Gordon made CPH his second home. Jazzhus Montmartre is the closest thing, east of Paris, that you'll find to the legendary jazz clubs of Harlem.
Every July, the city itself becomes festival grounds, and jazz musicians pop up in parks, in city squares, in courtyards, at music halls, along canals and in cafés. The Copenhagen Jazz Festival began Friday, and bands from near and far descended upon the town. Already I've run into multiple shows that seem to have sprouted up spontaneously and attracted a steady swarm of onlookers.